10 Warning Signs of Foundation Problems Every Homeowner Should Know

Introduction: Catching Foundation Problems Early Saves Thousands

Your home’s foundation does its job quietly. When it is working properly, you never think about it. But when something goes wrong beneath the surface, your house starts sending signals — subtle at first, then increasingly impossible to ignore. The difference between a $3,000 repair and a $30,000 repair often comes down to how quickly you recognize those signals and act on them.

Foundation problems do not fix themselves. Soil continues to shift. Water continues to erode. Pressure continues to build. Every month you delay addressing a developing foundation issue, the scope and cost of the eventual repair tend to increase. That is why understanding the warning signs matters so much: early detection is the single most effective way to minimize foundation repair costs.

This guide covers the ten most common warning signs of foundation problems in residential homes. For each sign, we explain what to look for, why it happens, and how severe it is likely to be. If you spot multiple signs on this list in your home, a professional foundation inspection should be your next step.

1. Cracks in Interior Walls, Floors, and Ceilings

Cracks are the most recognized symptom of foundation distress, and for good reason — they are often the most visible. But not all cracks are created equal, and knowing how to read them is critical before jumping to conclusions.

What to Look For

Interior wall cracks caused by foundation movement have distinctive characteristics. Look for diagonal cracks radiating from the corners of door frames and window frames, running at roughly 45 degrees toward the ceiling or floor. These are sometimes called “stair-step” cracks when they follow mortar joints in brick, or “shear” cracks when they cut diagonally across drywall.

Horizontal cracks along the midpoint of basement walls are particularly concerning, as they indicate lateral soil pressure pushing the wall inward. Cracks in floor tiles, especially in patterns that suggest movement rather than impact damage, can also point to slab settlement or heaving.

Ceiling cracks deserve attention too. A crack running across the ceiling parallel to a wall below may indicate that the wall is settling and pulling the ceiling framing with it. Cracks at the junction of walls and ceilings often appear as the earliest signs of movement because this joint is a stress concentration point.

Why It Happens

When a foundation shifts — whether it is settling unevenly, heaving from expansive soil, or bowing from lateral pressure — the rigid materials above it (drywall, plaster, tile, masonry) cannot flex to accommodate the movement. They crack instead. The location, direction, and width of the crack reflect the type and direction of the underlying foundation movement.

Differential settlement — one part of the foundation sinking more than another — produces diagonal and stair-step cracks because the shearing force acts at an angle. Lateral pressure from saturated soil produces horizontal cracks in basement walls. Uniform settlement tends to produce vertical cracks, which are generally the least concerning.

Severity Level

Hairline cracks (less than 1/16 inch wide) in drywall are extremely common and usually result from normal settling or seasonal expansion and contraction of building materials. These are rarely a foundation concern.

Cracks between 1/16 and 1/4 inch deserve monitoring. Mark the ends of the crack with pencil and date them. Measure the width at the widest point and record it. Check monthly for any changes.

Cracks wider than 1/4 inch, cracks that are wider at one end than the other, and cracks that are growing over time are significantly more concerning. Multiple cracks appearing simultaneously in different parts of the house suggest widespread foundation movement that warrants prompt professional evaluation.

For a detailed breakdown of what different crack patterns mean, see our complete guide to foundation crack types.

2. Sticking Doors and Windows

Doors and windows that suddenly become difficult to open, close, or latch are one of the earliest and most commonly overlooked signs of foundation movement. Homeowners often attribute sticking doors to humidity, house age, or worn hardware — and sometimes those explanations are correct. But when multiple doors or windows start sticking around the same time, the foundation deserves scrutiny.

What to Look For

Pay attention to interior doors that no longer close flush against the frame, exterior doors that drag on the threshold, or windows that bind when you try to slide them open. Look closely at the gaps between the door and its frame — if the gap is noticeably wider at the top than at the bottom (or vice versa), the frame has shifted out of square, which is a hallmark of foundation movement.

Double-hung windows that suddenly will not stay open, or that bind on one side but not the other, are another telltale sign. French doors and sliding glass doors are particularly sensitive to even small amounts of structural movement because their larger size amplifies any frame distortion.

Check whether the latch or deadbolt aligns with the strike plate. If you find yourself having to lift the door handle to engage the lock when it used to work smoothly, the frame has shifted.

Why It Happens

Door and window frames are rectangles, and rectangles depend on right angles to function properly. When a foundation shifts, the framing above it shifts too. A wall that racks even a fraction of an inch out of plumb can turn a rectangular door frame into a parallelogram. The door, still rectangular, no longer fits within the distorted frame.

The same principle applies to window frames, though windows are generally more forgiving because of their smaller size. However, because windows are usually set in exterior walls that carry structural loads, window binding can actually be a more reliable indicator of foundation movement than interior door sticking.

Severity Level

A single sticking door in an older home is likely a minor issue and may have nothing to do with the foundation. Seasonal sticking — doors that stick in humid summers but operate normally in winter — is typically caused by wood absorbing moisture, not foundation movement.

However, if you notice two or more doors or windows on the same side of the house becoming difficult to operate — especially if they were fine six months ago — that pattern strongly suggests localized foundation settlement on that side. Doors that used to stick seasonally but now stick year-round indicate that the movement has progressed beyond what seasonal moisture changes can explain. This warrants a professional evaluation.

3. Uneven or Sloping Floors

Walking across a room and feeling the floor slope beneath your feet is an unmistakable sign that something has changed in the structure below. While minor floor slopes are not unusual in older homes, a slope that is new, worsening, or accompanied by other warning signs on this list demands attention.

What to Look For

Place a marble or ball on the floor in different rooms and note whether it rolls consistently in one direction. Use a 4-foot level in several spots to check for slope. A floor that slopes more than 1/2 inch over 10 feet is generally considered outside the normal tolerance for residential construction.

Look for dips or humps in the flooring, bouncy or springy areas (in homes with crawl spaces or basements), and areas where the flooring has separated from the baseboards. In homes with hardwood floors, you may notice boards separating or buckling. Tile floors may show cracked grout lines or cracked tiles in a pattern that follows the line of settlement.

Pay attention to where furniture sits. If a bookshelf that used to stand flush against the wall now leans forward, or if a refrigerator that used to be level now rocks, the floor beneath it has shifted.

Why It Happens

Uneven floors result from differential settlement — one section of the foundation dropping more than another, or one section heaving upward while the rest stays put. In pier-and-beam homes, floor slope can also result from deteriorating support beams, failing piers, or moisture damage to structural framing underneath the house.

Slab foundations can develop slope from soil erosion beneath one section of the slab, from expansive clay heaving unevenly, or from plumbing leaks washing soil away under the slab. Plumbing leaks beneath slabs are a particularly common cause in states with expansive soils like Texas and Oklahoma, where cast-iron drain lines corrode and leak over decades, slowly eroding the bearing soil.

Severity Level

A floor slope of 1/4 inch or less over 10 feet may be cosmetic and the result of decades of minor, uniform settling or original construction imperfections. A slope between 1/4 and 1/2 inch over 10 feet warrants monitoring and possibly a professional evaluation, especially if the slope is new.

A slope exceeding 1/2 inch over 10 feet, or a slope that has developed recently and is getting worse, indicates active foundation movement. This is a moderate to high severity issue that typically requires piering or other structural repair to address.

4. Gaps Around Window Frames and Door Frames

When you notice gaps appearing between window frames and the surrounding wall, or between door frames and the walls they are mounted in, the framing is pulling apart — and the most common cause is foundation movement beneath it.

What to Look For

Inspect the exterior and interior of your windows carefully. Look for gaps between the window casing and the adjacent wall surface, particularly at the top corners. Caulk that has cracked or separated where window frames meet siding or brick is another indicator. On the interior, check for gaps between door trim and the wall, or between the top of a door frame and the header above it.

Also look for exterior gaps where the wall meets the roof soffit. As a foundation settles, the walls above can rotate or drop, opening gaps at the roofline that were not previously there. Gaps where brick veneer has pulled away from window and door frames are common in homes experiencing settlement and are highly visible from the street.

Check the mitered corners of your door and window trim. These 45-degree joints are cut to fit tightly when the frame is square. Even a small amount of frame distortion opens the miter joint, creating a visible V-shaped gap.

Why It Happens

Foundation settlement pulls the structural framing downward, but not uniformly. As one section drops relative to another, the rigid connections between walls, headers, and trim pieces are stressed. Since the framing members themselves are not compressing, the movement expresses itself as gaps — spaces that open up where tight joints used to be.

The relationship between the wall framing and the window or door unit is particularly vulnerable because window and door openings are weak points in the wall structure. Headers above openings carry concentrated loads, and when the foundation shifts, these areas experience disproportionate stress.

Severity Level

Small gaps (under 1/8 inch) that appear gradually in a home over 20 years old may be the result of normal cumulative settling. Gaps larger than 1/4 inch, gaps that are clearly new, and gaps that are widening over months represent more active movement.

Gaps around window frames that are large enough to see daylight through are a clear sign that the structural integrity of the wall is compromised. This level of separation typically indicates settlement of 1/2 inch or more in the affected area. These gaps also create pathways for water and air infiltration, which can accelerate damage to the wall framing and insulation.

5. Water Intrusion in the Basement or Crawl Space

Water where it should not be is both a symptom and a cause of foundation problems. Foundation cracks and shifts create pathways for water to enter. And water that enters accelerates the deterioration cycle by eroding soil, corroding reinforcement, and increasing hydrostatic pressure against walls.

What to Look For

Check your basement or crawl space for standing water, damp spots on walls, efflorescence (white mineral deposits on concrete or block surfaces), and musty odors. Look for water stains on the lower portions of basement walls and along the wall-floor joint. In crawl spaces, check for saturated soil, standing water, and condensation on surfaces.

Examine metal items stored in the basement or crawl space. Rust on tools, shelving, or HVAC equipment indicates sustained elevated humidity. Look for peeling paint on concrete walls, which often indicates moisture migrating through the wall from the outside.

Outside, examine whether your grading slopes toward or away from the foundation. Water pooling against the foundation wall after rain is a red flag that should be addressed regardless of whether you currently see interior water intrusion. Check your gutters and downspouts — disconnected downspouts or downspouts that discharge directly at the foundation are major contributors to foundation water problems.

Why It Happens

When a foundation cracks or shifts, it opens pathways through what was previously a watertight barrier. Hydrostatic pressure from saturated soil pushes water through these cracks and gaps. In basement homes, horizontal cracks caused by lateral soil pressure are particularly common water entry points. The wall-floor joint (where the basement slab meets the wall) is another frequent entry point, as this is a natural cold joint between two separate concrete pours.

In some cases, water intrusion is the cause rather than the symptom. A plumbing leak beneath a slab can erode supporting soil and cause localized settlement. Poor drainage can saturate expansive clay soil, causing it to exert damaging pressure against foundation walls. Clogged or absent footer drains allow hydrostatic pressure to build unchecked.

Severity Level

Minor dampness along the wall-floor joint during heavy rain is common and can often be addressed with exterior grading improvements and gutter maintenance. This alone does not indicate a foundation problem.

Active water flowing through wall cracks, recurring standing water, or water intrusion that is getting worse over time are moderate to high severity issues that indicate both a waterproofing failure and likely structural movement. New water entry points that appear where the basement was previously dry strongly suggest that foundation movement has created new pathways. A professional inspection is warranted in any of these scenarios.

6. Chimney Leaning or Separating from the House

A chimney pulling away from the exterior wall of the house is one of the most visually dramatic signs of foundation problems. Because chimneys are heavy, rigid, and often sit on their own footing separate from the main foundation, they are particularly susceptible to differential settlement.

What to Look For

Stand back from your house and sight along the chimney. Is it perfectly vertical, or does it lean away from the house? Look at the joint where the chimney meets the exterior wall — is there a gap? Can you see daylight between the chimney masonry and the siding or brick veneer of the house?

From inside, check the area around the fireplace for cracks in the mantel, gaps between the fireplace surround and the adjacent wall, and cracks in the hearth. Check the flashing where the chimney penetrates the roof for signs of separation or new gaps.

If you have a second-story view or can safely observe from a neighbor’s property, sight the chimney against the vertical edge of the house. Even a slight lean will be visible when compared to a known vertical reference line.

Why It Happens

Chimneys are extremely heavy structures — a two-story brick chimney can weigh 6,000 to 10,000 pounds or more. That weight is concentrated on a relatively small footing. If the soil beneath the chimney footing erodes, compresses, or shifts differently than the soil beneath the main foundation, the chimney settles independently. Because it is rigidly attached to the house at the roofline and often at the wall, this differential movement creates a visible tilt and separation gap.

In cold climates, shallow chimney footings can also be affected by frost heave, pushing the chimney upward during winter and allowing it to settle back differently in spring. Over years of freeze-thaw cycles, this ratcheting effect can produce a noticeable lean.

Severity Level

A chimney that is actively separating from the house is a high-severity issue. The structural risk is twofold: the chimney itself could become unstable (a falling chimney is a serious safety hazard), and the gap it creates in the building envelope allows water infiltration that accelerates damage to both the chimney and the adjacent wall framing.

A gap of 1/2 inch or less that has been stable for several years may represent an old, resolved movement. But any chimney with a visible lean — even a slight one — or a gap that is growing should be evaluated promptly. Repair typically involves installing helical piers or push piers at the chimney footing to stabilize it and potentially lift it back toward its original position.

7. Nail Pops in Drywall

Nail pops are small circles or bumps that appear in drywall where the nail or screw head pushes through the surface compound. A few nail pops in a house over 10 years old are entirely normal. A sudden cluster of them, or nail pops appearing across multiple rooms simultaneously, can indicate structural framing movement driven by foundation shifting.

What to Look For

Walk through each room and look at the walls and ceilings in raking light — light that hits the surface at a low angle, such as late afternoon sun through a window. Nail pops appear as small circular bumps or depressions, sometimes with a visible crack around them or the actual nail head protruding through the paint.

Note how many you find, where they are clustered, and whether they are new. Check ceilings as well as walls. Ceiling nail pops can be more informative than wall pops because ceiling joists span longer distances and are more responsive to structural movement.

Map the locations. If nail pops cluster along one wall or in rooms that share a common area of the foundation, the pattern suggests that section of framing is moving.

Why It Happens

Drywall is attached to the wood framing with nails or screws. When the framing shifts — even slightly — the fastener’s position changes relative to the drywall surface. The nail head pushes through the joint compound, creating a visible bump. In some cases, the framing pulls away from the drywall entirely, leaving a depression where the screw head used to hold the panel tight.

Nail pops also occur naturally as framing lumber dries and shrinks over the first few years after construction. This is why isolated nail pops in a newer home (under five years old) are not alarming. The lumber loses moisture content, shrinks slightly around the nail, and the nail pops through the compound.

Severity Level

Isolated nail pops: Low severity. Normal in homes of any age and not necessarily related to the foundation. Fix them cosmetically by driving the popped nail back in, adding a drywall screw nearby for reinforcement, and re-taping.

Widespread nail pops concentrated on one side of the house or on a specific floor, especially when accompanied by other signs on this list: moderate severity. This pattern suggests that framing in that area is moving, and the most common driver of widespread framing movement is the foundation below it. Investigate further.

8. Bowing or Bulging Basement Walls

When a basement wall curves inward rather than standing perfectly vertical, the wall is being pushed by lateral soil pressure. This is one of the most structurally serious foundation problems a homeowner can face, and it requires prompt professional attention.

What to Look For

Stand at one end of a basement wall and sight along its length. The wall should be flat and vertical. If you see a curve, bulge, or visible lean, measure how far the wall has moved inward at the point of maximum displacement. You can do this by holding a long straightedge (a straight 2x4 or a taut string line) against the wall from top to bottom and measuring the gap at the widest point.

Also look for horizontal cracks at the midpoint of the wall height, which frequently accompany bowing. The crack develops at the point of maximum bending stress. In concrete block walls, you may see stair-step cracking along the mortar joints in addition to or instead of a clean horizontal crack. Efflorescence, water staining, and damp spots on a bowing wall indicate that soil pressure and water pressure are working together.

Check whether the top of the wall has moved inward relative to the sill plate. In severe cases, you can see a gap between the top of the foundation wall and the wood framing that sits on top of it.

Why It Happens

The soil around your foundation exerts lateral (sideways) pressure against the basement walls. In well-drained, stable soils, this pressure is within the design capacity of the wall. But when soil becomes saturated with water, the pressure increases dramatically — water-saturated clay can exert two to three times the pressure of dry soil. Freeze-thaw cycles in cold climates compound the problem, as water in the soil expands approximately 9 percent when it freezes.

Over years of this cyclical pressure, the wall fatigues and begins to bow inward. The wall typically cracks horizontally at its midpoint, where bending stress is greatest, and continues to deflect unless stabilized. Dense, expansive clay soils are the worst offenders because they exert high pressure when wet and contract away from the wall when dry, creating a gap that fills with loose soil and debris, increasing pressure in the next wet cycle.

Severity Level

Any visible bowing of a basement wall is a high-severity issue that should not be ignored or deferred.

Less than 1 inch of inward displacement: The wall can typically be stabilized with carbon fiber strips, which prevent further movement but do not push the wall back.

1 to 2 inches of displacement: Wall anchors are typically recommended. These can stabilize the wall and, with periodic tightening over one to three years, may gradually straighten it.

More than 2 inches of displacement: The wall may require excavation and reconstruction, or a combination of wall anchors with supplemental reinforcement. At this level of displacement, the wall’s structural capacity is significantly compromised.

Do not ignore a bowing wall. Untreated, it can eventually collapse inward, which is a catastrophic and extremely expensive failure.

9. Separated Molding, Trim, or Crown Molding

When the trim work inside your home starts pulling away from the walls or ceilings, it reveals that the surfaces it was attached to are no longer in the same relative position. Interior trim is cut and installed to fit tightly between surfaces. When those surfaces move apart, the trim separates.

What to Look For

Inspect the joints where crown molding meets the ceiling and wall. Look for gaps that were not previously there. Check the baseboards — are they pulling away from the wall at certain points, or is there a gap opening between the baseboard and the floor? Examine the casings around doors and windows for separation at the mitered corners, where two pieces of trim meet at a 45-degree angle.

Mitered joints are especially revealing because even a small amount of framing movement causes the joint to open visibly. A tight miter joint that has opened to show a gap is almost certainly responding to structural movement rather than simple wood shrinkage.

Also check staircase trim. The stringer (the diagonal board that the stair treads attach to) is typically attached to the wall. If you see the stringer pulling away from the wall, or gaps developing between the staircase and the adjacent wall surface, it is a reliable indicator of differential settlement — the wall and the staircase are moving relative to each other.

Why It Happens

Trim is rigid. It is nailed in place against surfaces that are assumed to be stationary. When the foundation shifts and the framing above it moves, the walls and ceilings change position relative to each other. The trim, caught between two surfaces that are now in different positions, either pulls away, gaps open at joints, or the trim itself cracks.

This is especially visible with crown molding because it bridges the joint between wall and ceiling — two planes that move independently when the framing shifts. Even 1/8 inch of relative movement between a wall and a ceiling will produce a visible gap in crown molding.

Baseboard separation from the floor often indicates the floor is settling while the wall remains in place, or vice versa. The direction and pattern of the separation can help identify which part of the structure is moving.

Severity Level

Minor trim separation in an older home, particularly at mitered joints that may have been imperfect from original installation, is low severity and may not be foundation-related. Wood trim naturally shrinks as it ages and loses moisture, and this can produce small gaps at joints.

Trim pulling away from walls in a consistent pattern — for example, crown molding gapping on the same side of the house where doors are sticking and floors are sloping — is moderate to high severity. The trim separation itself is cosmetic, but it is confirming the same directional foundation movement indicated by the other symptoms. When trim separation correlates with other signs on this list, treat it as confirmation of a developing foundation problem rather than an isolated cosmetic issue.

10. Musty Smells in the Basement or Crawl Space

A persistent musty or earthy smell in your basement or crawl space may seem like a minor nuisance, but it often indicates moisture intrusion that is either caused by or contributing to foundation problems.

What to Look For

Pay attention to smells that are persistent rather than occasional. A musty smell after a heavy rain that dissipates within a day or two may indicate minor water entry that dries quickly. A constant musty odor, especially one that worsens over time or persists through dry weather, suggests sustained moisture problems: poor drainage, chronic water intrusion through cracks, or condensation due to inadequate ventilation.

Look for visible mold growth on concrete surfaces, wooden framing, and stored items. Black, green, or white fuzzy growth on floor joists, sill plates, or the underside of subfloor sheathing indicates sustained elevated moisture. Check for efflorescence on concrete or block walls — those white crystalline deposits are minerals left behind as water migrates through the concrete and evaporates on the interior surface.

Inspect any vapor barriers in crawl spaces for tears, displacement, or standing water on top of them. A vapor barrier that was once flat and intact but is now bunched, torn, or submerged indicates that conditions in the crawl space have changed.

Why It Happens

Musty smells are produced by mold and mildew, which thrive in damp, poorly ventilated spaces. In the context of foundation health, this moisture often enters through cracks in the foundation wall or slab, through the wall-floor joint, or through gaps created by foundation settlement. It can also result from hydrostatic pressure forcing ground water through porous concrete.

In crawl spaces, moisture can rise from exposed earth (if there is no vapor barrier) or enter through foundation vents during humid weather. Sustained moisture in a crawl space accelerates wood rot in floor joists and beams, which can cause structural sagging that compounds foundation issues. Rot-weakened beams and joists lose their ability to distribute loads properly, concentrating stress on portions of the foundation that were not designed to carry those loads.

Severity Level

The smell itself is low severity. But it is an indicator of a moisture condition that, left unchecked, leads to mold growth (a health concern), wood rot (a structural concern), and potentially worsening foundation deterioration (as water erodes supporting soil and increases lateral pressure).

The severity escalates when musty smells are accompanied by visible water intrusion, efflorescence, structural wood damage, or other signs from this list. Address the moisture source first, and have the foundation evaluated if you suspect cracks or gaps are providing the entry point for water.

When Multiple Signs Appear Together

Finding one item from this list in your home is not cause for panic. Many of these signs have benign explanations. A single sticking door might be humidity. A few nail pops are normal aging. A hairline crack is almost certainly cosmetic.

But foundation problems rarely produce just one symptom. The real red flag is patterns — multiple signs appearing on the same side of the house, multiple signs worsening over the same time period, or combinations that reinforce each other.

Common Symptom Clusters

Settlement pattern: Sticking doors on one side of the house, plus diagonal wall cracks, plus sloping floors toward the same side. This combination strongly suggests differential settlement — one section of the foundation is sinking. The affected area likely needs piering or lifting.

Lateral pressure pattern: Bowing basement walls, plus horizontal wall cracks, plus water intrusion. This combination indicates the surrounding soil is pushing inward against the foundation walls. Wall anchors, carbon fiber reinforcement, or exterior drainage improvements are the typical solutions.

Comprehensive pattern: Multiple signs scattered throughout the house — cracks in different locations, gaps appearing at different points, widespread nail pops, musty smells. This may indicate widespread soil problems, plumbing leaks undermining the foundation from below, or age-related deterioration that has reached a tipping point.

If you are seeing two or more signs from this list, especially if they are concentrated in one area or have developed recently, a professional evaluation is strongly recommended. Start with a foundation inspection to determine whether you are dealing with normal house aging or active structural movement.

What to Do Next

Step 1: Document Everything

Before calling anyone, photograph every sign you have identified. Note the date and location. For cracks, measure and record the width using a ruler or crack gauge. For doors and windows, note which ones are sticking and whether they were fine before. This documentation gives any inspector or contractor a useful baseline and shows the progression of the problem if symptoms worsen over the following months.

Step 2: Get an Independent Inspection

A structural engineer’s assessment ($300 to $800) gives you an unbiased diagnosis with no financial interest in recommending repairs. This is the single best investment you can make before committing to any repair work. The engineer will measure floor elevations, assess crack patterns, identify probable causes, and provide specific recommendations. See our foundation inspection guide for details on what to expect from this process.

Step 3: Get Multiple Repair Quotes

If the engineer confirms foundation problems, get at least three quotes from licensed foundation repair contractors. Compare not just pricing, but the proposed repair method, warranty terms, number of piers or anchors proposed, and scope of work. You can request free estimates from vetted contractors in your area to start the comparison process.

Step 4: Act Promptly

Foundation problems do not improve on their own. The soil conditions that caused the initial movement continue acting on your foundation every day. The longer you wait, the more extensive — and expensive — the repair becomes. A foundation issue caught early might require 6 piers at $1,500 each. The same issue left for five years might require 14 piers plus wall stabilization, tripling the cost.

Addressing a foundation issue at the first sign of trouble is almost always less costly than waiting until the problem becomes severe. For cost estimates specific to your location, check the foundation repair costs in your state.

The Bottom Line

Your house communicates through the signs described in this guide. Cracks, sticking doors, sloping floors, and gaps around frames are not random malfunctions — they are the physical expressions of forces acting on your foundation. Learning to read those signs gives you the power to catch problems early, make informed decisions, and protect both your home’s structural integrity and your financial investment.

No single symptom on this list is a definitive diagnosis. But each is a data point, and the more data points that align, the stronger the case for professional evaluation. When in doubt, call a professional. A few hundred dollars for an expert opinion is a small price compared to the cost of ignoring a problem until it becomes a crisis.