Foundation Repair Methods Compared: Piering, Mudjacking, Wall Anchors & More

Introduction: No Single Method Fits Every Foundation Problem

Foundation repair is not a one-size-fits-all proposition. The right method depends on the type of problem (settling, bowing, cracking, or heaving), the foundation type (slab, basement, crawl space), soil conditions, severity of damage, and budget. A contractor who recommends the same solution for every job should raise an immediate red flag.

This guide covers the eight most widely used residential foundation repair methods. For each one, we explain how it works, when it is used, what it costs, how long it lasts, and where its limitations lie. By the end, you will be equipped to evaluate contractor proposals critically and ask the right questions before committing to any repair.

If you are still determining whether you have a foundation problem, start with our guide on warning signs of foundation problems or our breakdown of foundation crack types.

1. Steel Push Piers (Resistance Piers)

Steel push piers are considered the gold standard for stabilizing and lifting settling foundations. They are the most common method used by established foundation repair companies for homes experiencing differential settlement — when one section of the foundation sinks lower than the rest.

How It Works

A steel bracket is attached to the underside of the foundation footing. Through this bracket, galvanized steel pipe sections (typically 2-7/8 to 3-1/2 inches in diameter) are hydraulically driven one at a time into the ground. The hydraulic ram uses the weight of the structure itself as resistance — pushing against the house to drive the pipe deeper.

The pier sections are driven through unstable surface soils until they reach bedrock or a competent load-bearing stratum deep enough to permanently support the structure. Depending on local geology, this may be 15 feet or 50 feet below grade.

Once all piers reach stable bearing soil, synchronized hydraulic jacks apply upward pressure through the bracket system to stabilize the foundation at its current position and, in many cases, lift it back toward its original elevation. Each pier is load-tested during installation to verify that it can carry the required weight.

When It Is Used

• Differential settlement: one section of the foundation has dropped relative to the rest
• Foundations built on fill soil that was inadequately compacted
• Settlement caused by soil erosion, drought-related shrinkage, or plumbing leaks
• Any situation where stable bearing soil or bedrock exists at reachable depth

Pros

• Reach bedrock or deep stable soil for a permanent solution
• Can lift the foundation back toward its original position, not just stabilize
• Each pier is individually load-tested at installation to verify capacity
• Relatively low disruption — most work is done from small excavations at the foundation perimeter
• Transferable lifetime warranty available from most manufacturers
• No curing time — the pier is fully functional the moment it reaches bearing

Cons

• Higher cost per pier than some alternatives ($1,000 to $3,000 per pier installed)
• Requires sufficient structure weight to provide reaction force for driving
• Not suitable for very lightweight structures (porches, small additions)
• Requires adequate clearance around the foundation perimeter for equipment
• Cannot be driven effectively through boulder fields or dense rock layers above the bearing stratum

Typical Cost Range

$1,000 to $3,000 per pier. Most residential projects require 6 to 15 piers, putting total costs at $8,000 to $25,000. Pricing varies by region — check your state’s cost page for local benchmarks.

Expected Lifespan

Permanent. Steel push piers driven to bedrock or competent bearing strata are designed to last the life of the structure. The galvanized steel resists corrosion, and the load-tested connection to deep stable soil is not affected by surface soil changes.

2. Helical Piers (Screw Piles)

Helical piers serve a similar function to push piers — transferring the building load from unstable surface soil to stable deep soil — but they are installed differently and excel in situations where push piers are impractical.

How It Works

A helical pier is a steel shaft with one or more helix-shaped bearing plates welded along its length. It looks like a large, heavy-duty screw. A hydraulic torque motor rotates the pier into the ground, and the helical plates pull it downward through the soil, much like a screw entering wood.

During installation, the torque required to advance the pier is continuously monitored. This torque correlates directly to the bearing capacity of the soil at the plate depth, providing real-time verification that the pier has reached adequate support. Once the target torque (and therefore capacity) is achieved, the pier is connected to the foundation via a steel bracket.

When It Is Used

• New construction foundation support (installed before the structure is built)
• Lightweight structures that do not provide enough mass to react against push pier installation
• Applications requiring tension resistance (such as anchoring against uplift from expansive soils)
• Sites where vibration must be minimized (near utilities, adjacent structures, or sensitive equipment)
• Areas with high water tables where saturated soil makes push pier driving difficult
• Tight-access areas where compact installation equipment is needed

Pros

• Can be installed regardless of structure weight — no reaction force needed
• Torque-to-capacity correlation provides real-time, quantifiable load verification
• Low vibration and relatively low noise during installation
• Effective in both compression (bearing) and tension (anchoring)
• Can be installed in limited-access areas with smaller equipment
• Removable and reusable if future modifications require it

Cons

• Helical plates can be deflected by cobbles, boulders, or very dense soil layers
• Not as effective in rocky soils where plates cannot advance smoothly
• Slightly more expensive than push piers in most markets
• Shaft diameter may limit capacity for very heavy structural loads
• Multiple helix plates can cause soil disturbance during installation in sensitive soils

Typical Cost Range

$1,500 to $3,500 per pier. Total project costs are comparable to push pier projects: $10,000 to $25,000 for a typical residential job.

Expected Lifespan

Permanent. Like push piers, helical piers in stable bearing soil are designed for the life of the structure. Most manufacturers offer lifetime transferable warranties.

3. Mudjacking (Slabjacking)

Mudjacking is one of the oldest and most affordable methods for raising settled concrete. It is most commonly applied to exterior flatwork — driveways, sidewalks, patios, garage floors, and pool decks — and can also be used for slab-on-grade foundations with minor, uniform settlement.

How It Works

Small holes (about 1-5/8 inches in diameter) are drilled through the settled concrete slab at strategic locations. A thick slurry — typically a mixture of sand, cement, water, and sometimes crusite limestone or soil — is pumped through the holes under pressure. The slurry fills voids beneath the slab and exerts upward hydraulic pressure, lifting the concrete back toward its target elevation. Once the slab is level, the drill holes are patched with concrete.

The slurry cures to a solid mass over 24 to 48 hours, providing a stable base for the raised slab. The concrete surface can typically be walked on immediately and driven on within 24 hours.

When It Is Used

• Settled driveways, sidewalks, patios, garage floors, and pool decks
• Slab-on-grade foundations with minor (under 2 inches), relatively uniform settlement
• Concrete stoops and steps that have settled away from the house
• Budget-conscious projects where the settlement is limited and the cause has been addressed

Pros

• Significantly less expensive than piering
• Fast completion — most residential jobs finished in 2 to 6 hours
• Minimal disruption to landscaping and the surrounding property
• Concrete can typically be used the same day
• Well-established method with decades of track record

Cons

• Heavy slurry adds 100+ pounds per cubic foot to already compromised soil, potentially accelerating future settlement
• Does not address the underlying soil problem — settlement may recur if the cause is not corrected
• Limited lifting precision compared to piering or foam injection
• Drill holes are larger (1-5/8 inch) and more noticeable than foam injection holes
• Slurry can deteriorate over time if exposed to chronic water infiltration
• Not appropriate for severe or active differential settlement where the cause is ongoing

Typical Cost Range

$3 to $6 per square foot, or $500 to $1,500 per slab section. For a slab foundation: $2,000 to $6,000 total.

Expected Lifespan

5 to 10 years on average. Mudjacking can last longer in stable, well-drained soils, but because it does not reach deep bearing strata, it is more susceptible to recurrence than piering. If the soil conditions that caused the original settlement have been corrected (drainage improved, plumbing leak repaired), longevity improves significantly.

4. Polyurethane Foam Injection (Poly Lifting / Foam Jacking)

Polyurethane foam injection is a modern alternative to mudjacking that uses expanding two-part polyurethane foam instead of heavy cement slurry. It has gained significant market share over the past decade due to its lighter weight, greater precision, and faster cure time.

How It Works

Small holes (about 5/8 inch in diameter) are drilled through the settled concrete. A two-part polyurethane resin is injected through the holes using specialized equipment. Within 15 seconds, the resin expands to 15 to 20 times its liquid volume, filling voids and exerting controlled upward pressure on the slab.

The foam reaches approximately 90 percent of its final compressive strength within 15 minutes. Injection is performed in small, incremental lifts monitored in real time with laser levels, allowing for precise elevation control — often to within 1/8 inch of the target.

When It Is Used

• Slab lifting where added weight is a concern (foam weighs only 2 to 4 pounds per cubic foot versus 100+ for mudjacking slurry)
• Projects requiring precise elevation control and tight tolerances
• Void filling beneath slabs where soil has washed out or eroded
• Situations requiring fast return to service — foot traffic within minutes, vehicle traffic within hours
• Interior slab lifting where cleanliness and minimal disruption matter

Pros

• Extremely lightweight — does not add meaningful load to already weak soil
• Precise elevation control with real-time laser monitoring
• Very small injection holes (5/8 inch versus 1-5/8 inch) are nearly invisible after patching
• Cures in minutes; full use within hours
• Waterproof and chemically stable — does not break down from moisture exposure
• Fills even small voids, loose pockets, and soil irregularities

Cons

• More expensive than mudjacking (roughly 2x to 3x the cost)
• Does not reach deep soil layers — only fills voids directly beneath the slab
• Cannot address deep foundation settlement problems requiring structural piering
• Some environmental concerns about chemical foam remaining in soil permanently
• Not appropriate for foundations needing load transfer to deep bearing strata
• Cannot be removed or reversed if future access beneath the slab is needed

Typical Cost Range

$5 to $25 per square foot. Residential slab projects typically total $2,000 to $10,000.

Expected Lifespan

10 to 25 years or more. Polyurethane foam does not deteriorate from moisture, rot, or biological activity, giving it significantly better longevity than mudjacking slurry. However, like mudjacking, foam injection does not address deep soil problems — if the underlying soil continues to erode or compress, the slab may settle again.

5. Wall Anchors

Wall anchors are a repair method specifically designed for bowing, tilting, or leaning basement and foundation walls being pushed inward by lateral soil pressure. They do not address settling — they solve a completely different problem.

How It Works

An earth anchor — a large, helical steel plate similar to a ground screw — is driven into stable soil 10 to 15 feet away from the foundation wall, typically in the yard. A high-strength, galvanized steel rod connects the buried anchor to a large steel wall plate bolted to the interior face of the bowing wall.

The connecting rod passes through a small hole cored through the foundation wall. A large nut on the interior plate is tightened, drawing the wall plate against the wall and resisting further inward movement. The system effectively ties the bowing wall to the stable soil mass in the yard, transferring the lateral load away from the wall.

Over time — usually during seasonal periods when the soil dries and pressure decreases — the nut can be tightened incrementally to gradually straighten the wall back toward its original position. This straightening process typically takes one to three years of periodic adjustments.

When It Is Used

• Block or poured concrete basement walls bowing inward from lateral soil pressure
• Walls with horizontal cracks at mid-height accompanied by measurable inward displacement
• Walls displaced up to 2 inches (beyond this, supplemental methods may be needed)
• Situations where yard space is available for the exterior anchor installation

Pros

• Can gradually straighten bowing walls over time — not just stabilize
• Less expensive and less disruptive than wall replacement
• No exterior excavation of the foundation wall itself
• Effective long-term stabilization for moderate bowing
• Most systems include a transferable warranty

Cons

• Requires adequate yard space (10 to 15 feet) for buried earth anchors — not feasible near property lines or adjacent structures
• Gradual straightening takes one to three years of periodic tightening
• Not effective for walls bowed more than 2 inches without supplemental reinforcement
• Interior wall plates are visible on the basement wall (can be concealed behind finishing)
• Requires small excavation holes in the yard for anchor installation

Typical Cost Range

$400 to $800 per anchor. Anchors are typically spaced 5 to 6 feet apart along the affected wall. A standard bowing wall repair runs $3,000 to $8,000.

Expected Lifespan

Permanent, with maintenance. The steel components are designed to last indefinitely. Periodic tightening (once or twice per year for the first few years) is the only maintenance requirement. Once the wall is straightened and the soil pressure stabilizes, no further adjustment is typically needed.

6. Carbon Fiber Straps (Carbon Fiber Reinforcement)

Carbon fiber straps are a newer, minimally invasive method for stabilizing foundation walls that show early signs of bowing or cracking. They are a prevention and stabilization measure — they stop further movement but do not push the wall back to its original position.

How It Works

High-strength carbon fiber fabric strips are bonded to the interior face of the foundation wall using structural epoxy. The wall surface is first prepared — cleaned, dried, and ground smooth if necessary to ensure proper adhesion. The carbon fiber strips are then applied vertically, typically 4 to 6 feet apart, and the epoxy is allowed to cure for 24 to 48 hours.

Once cured, the carbon fiber acts as a tensile reinforcement layer that resists further inward movement. Carbon fiber has a higher tensile strength-to-weight ratio than steel, making it exceptionally effective at resisting the bending forces that cause wall bowing.

When It Is Used

• Early-stage wall bowing with less than 1 inch of inward displacement
• Horizontal or stair-step cracks in block walls without significant displacement
• Preventive reinforcement for walls in high-lateral-pressure soil conditions
• Situations where a clean, low-profile repair is desired (carbon fiber strips are less than 1/8 inch thick)
• Basement walls that will be finished and need to be as flat as possible

Pros

• No excavation required — entirely installed from the interior
• Extremely thin profile (under 1/8 inch) — virtually invisible once painted
• Exceptionally high tensile strength relative to weight
• Fast installation — most jobs completed in a single day
• No ongoing maintenance or periodic tightening required
• Does not reduce usable interior basement space

Cons

• Cannot straighten or push back a bowing wall — stabilization only
• Not effective for walls with more than 1 inch of inward displacement
• Requires a clean, smooth, dry wall surface for proper epoxy bonding
• Not suitable for stone, rubble, or rough-faced foundations
• Relatively newer technology with a shorter long-term track record compared to piering or anchoring
• Will not address the underlying cause of soil pressure (drainage must be addressed separately)

Typical Cost Range

$300 to $600 per strap. Most walls require 4 to 8 straps. Total project cost: $2,000 to $5,000 per wall.

Expected Lifespan

Permanent, assuming the wall displacement does not exceed the straps’ holding capacity. Carbon fiber does not corrode, rot, or degrade under normal foundation conditions. The epoxy bond, when properly applied to a prepared surface, is designed to outlast the building.

7. Epoxy and Polyurethane Crack Injection

Crack injection is the primary repair method for non-structural and moderately structural cracks in poured concrete foundation walls. It seals the crack against water infiltration and, in the case of epoxy injection, restores much of the concrete’s original structural strength.

How It Works

Epoxy injection: Small plastic injection ports are adhered along the crack at 4 to 8 inch intervals. The crack surface between ports is sealed with epoxy paste to contain the injection. Once the surface seal cures, a two-part structural epoxy resin is injected under low pressure, starting at the lowest port and working upward. The epoxy penetrates the full depth of the crack, bonding the concrete on both sides. When cured, structural epoxy achieves compressive strength exceeding that of the original concrete.

Polyurethane injection: The process is similar, but polyurethane foam resin is used instead of rigid epoxy. Polyurethane expands as it cures, which helps it fill the full depth of the crack and adapt to irregularities. The cured polyurethane remains flexible, making it better suited for cracks that may experience minor ongoing movement. However, polyurethane does not restore structural strength the way epoxy does.

When It Is Used

• Poured concrete walls with cracks leaking water (most common application)
• Structural cracks in poured concrete that need to be re-bonded (epoxy only)
• Cracks resulting from shrinkage, minor settlement, or thermal cycling
• Basement waterproofing as an alternative to exterior excavation and membrane application

Pros

• Seals cracks completely against water intrusion
• Epoxy restores structural integrity across the crack
• No exterior excavation required
• Relatively fast — most jobs completed in a few hours
• Significantly less expensive than exterior waterproofing
• Can be performed year-round regardless of weather

Cons

• Only works on poured concrete — not effective for block, brick, or stone walls
• Does not address the cause of the cracking (settlement, soil pressure, etc.)
• If the underlying cause is not addressed, new cracks may develop nearby
• Rigid epoxy can crack again if significant movement recurs (polyurethane handles movement better but does not restore strength)
• Requires access to the interior face of the crack

Typical Cost Range

$300 to $800 per crack for professional injection. Most homeowners spend $500 to $2,500 total depending on the number and length of cracks.

Expected Lifespan

Permanent for the sealed crack itself, assuming the underlying cause of the cracking has stabilized. Epoxy-bonded cracks will not reopen at the injection site. However, if active foundation movement continues, new cracks may develop at different locations. Polyurethane injections remain flexible and accommodate minor subsequent movement, but they do not prevent new cracks from forming elsewhere.

8. Drain Tile Systems (Interior and Exterior)

Drain tile is not a structural repair method in the traditional sense, but it is frequently installed alongside foundation repairs because water management is fundamental to long-term foundation health. Chronic water pressure is the primary cause of wall bowing and a major contributor to soil erosion that causes settlement. Addressing water is often as important as addressing the structural symptom.

How It Works

Interior drain tile: A trench is cut into the basement floor slab around the perimeter (or specific sections) of the basement. A perforated drainage pipe is laid in the trench, surrounded by washed gravel. The pipe collects water that enters at the wall-floor joint or through wall cracks and channels it by gravity to a sump pit. A sump pump in the pit discharges the water away from the foundation. The trench is then covered with new concrete, restoring the floor surface.

Exterior drain tile: A trench is excavated along the outside of the foundation wall down to the footing level. A perforated pipe is laid at the base of the footing, surrounded by washed gravel and wrapped in filter fabric to prevent soil clogging. A waterproof membrane is typically applied to the exterior face of the foundation wall above the pipe. The trench is then backfilled. The pipe channels groundwater to a discharge point (daylight outlet, storm drain, or dry well) before it can build hydrostatic pressure against the wall.

When It Is Used

• Basement waterproofing to eliminate water intrusion at the wall-floor joint or through wall cracks
• Reducing hydrostatic pressure against foundation walls to prevent or slow bowing
• Companion to wall anchor or carbon fiber repairs to address the underlying moisture cause
• Homes in areas with high water tables or chronically saturated soil
• Properties where exterior grading improvements alone are insufficient

Pros

• Addresses the root cause of hydrostatic pressure — the primary driver of wall bowing
• Interior systems can be installed year-round regardless of weather and without disturbing landscaping
• Exterior systems provide comprehensive protection: drainage plus waterproof membrane
• Reduces basement humidity and eliminates most water intrusion
• Protects structural repairs (piers, anchors, carbon fiber) from the water conditions that caused the original damage

Cons

• Interior systems manage water but do not prevent it from contacting the foundation wall
• Exterior systems require full-perimeter excavation, which is expensive and disruptive to landscaping
• Sump pump dependency — interior systems require a functioning pump and backup power for reliability
• Does not fix structural damage — must be paired with structural repair methods for bowing walls or settlement
• Interior installation requires cutting and replacing the basement floor slab, which creates dust and noise

Typical Cost Range

Interior drain tile: $3,000 to $10,000 for a full-perimeter system including sump pump.

Exterior drain tile with waterproof membrane: $8,000 to $20,000 or more depending on depth and access.

Expected Lifespan

20 to 30 years or more for properly installed systems. The pipe and gravel system itself is passive and long-lasting. Sump pumps typically last 7 to 10 years and will need periodic replacement. Filter fabric on exterior systems can eventually clog in fine-silt soils, reducing effectiveness over decades.

Side-by-Side Comparison

Methods for Settling Foundations

Method	Cost per Unit	Total Cost Range	Permanence	Lifting Ability
Steel Push Piers	$1,000 - $3,000/pier	$8,000 - $25,000	Permanent	Yes — can restore original elevation
Helical Piers	$1,500 - $3,500/pier	$10,000 - $25,000	Permanent	Yes — can restore original elevation
Mudjacking	$3 - $6/sq ft	$2,000 - $6,000	5 - 10 years	Yes — limited precision
Foam Injection	$5 - $25/sq ft	$2,000 - $10,000	10 - 25 years	Yes — high precision

Methods for Bowing or Cracking Walls

Method	Cost per Unit	Total Cost Range	Wall Straightening	Best For
Wall Anchors	$400 - $800/anchor	$3,000 - $8,000	Gradual, over 1-3 years	Bowing up to 2 inches
Carbon Fiber Straps	$300 - $600/strap	$2,000 - $5,000	None — stabilization only	Early bowing under 1 inch
Crack Injection	$300 - $800/crack	$500 - $2,500	None	Water-leaking cracks in poured concrete
Drain Tile	Varies	$3,000 - $20,000	None — addresses water cause	Reducing hydrostatic pressure

How to Choose the Right Method

Step 1: Identify the Problem Type

Is your foundation settling (sinking) or are your walls bowing (pushing inward)? These are fundamentally different problems requiring different solutions. Settling calls for piering, mudjacking, or foam injection. Bowing calls for wall anchors or carbon fiber. Some foundations have both problems simultaneously, requiring a combination of methods.

Step 2: Assess the Severity

Minor settlement of a concrete slab may be adequately addressed with mudjacking or foam injection. Significant differential settlement of a structural foundation demands piering for a permanent solution. Early-stage wall bowing (under 1 inch) may need only carbon fiber straps. Advanced bowing (over 1 inch) requires wall anchors. Severe bowing (over 2 inches) may require wall reconstruction.

Step 3: Consider Your Soil

The soil beneath and around your foundation plays a decisive role in which methods are appropriate and how long they will last. Expansive clay soils that swell and shrink with moisture cycles cause recurring problems. In clay, lightweight foam injection makes more sense than heavy mudjacking slurry, and deep piering that reaches stable soil below the active zone provides the most permanent solution.

Sandy or silty soils that are prone to erosion may allow mudjacking or foam to work well, but only if the erosion source (typically a plumbing leak or drainage problem) is corrected first.

Step 4: Get an Independent Engineering Assessment

Before committing to any repair, invest in a structural engineer’s evaluation. Engineers charge $300 to $800 for a residential foundation inspection and report, and they have no financial interest in recommending a particular repair method. Their report specifies exactly what repair is needed, giving you an objective scope of work to bid out to contractors.

Step 5: Get Multiple Quotes

Obtain at least three quotes from reputable foundation repair contractors. Compare not just the total price but the proposed method, the number of piers or anchors, the warranty terms, and whether the proposal aligns with your engineer’s recommendation.

The cheapest quote is not always the best value. A $15,000 permanent pier repair with a lifetime transferable warranty may be a far better investment than a $4,000 mudjacking job that fails in five years. Conversely, a $25,000 proposal for a problem that an engineer says can be resolved with $8,000 in targeted repairs is likely overselling the scope.

You can request free estimates from vetted foundation repair contractors in your area to start the comparison process. Getting three quotes side by side gives you the information you need to make a confident decision about the right method, the right contractor, and the right price for your foundation repair.