How Long Does Foundation Repair Take? Timeline & What to Expect

One of the first questions homeowners ask after getting a foundation repair estimate is: how long is this actually going to take? The answer depends heavily on the repair method, the severity of the damage, and factors like soil conditions and weather. Some repairs wrap up in a single afternoon; others take a week or more of heavy equipment and crew work.

This guide gives you realistic timelines for every common foundation repair method, walks you through what to expect before, during, and after the work, and helps you plan around the disruption to your daily life.

Timelines by Repair Method

Not all foundation problems are created equal, and neither are their repair timelines. Here is a detailed breakdown of what to expect for each major repair type.

Crack Repair: 1 Day (Sometimes a Few Hours)

Hairline and minor structural cracks are the fastest foundation repairs. A crew can typically seal several cracks in a single visit lasting 4 to 8 hours.

Epoxy injection for poured concrete walls involves drilling small ports along the crack, then injecting a two-part epoxy resin that bonds the concrete back together. The resin cures to a strength that often exceeds the original concrete. For basement walls where water intrusion is the primary concern, polyurethane foam injection is sometimes used instead — it remains flexible and expands to fill the full depth of the crack.

Carbon fiber strap installation for reinforcing cracked walls adds roughly a half-day to the process, since the surface needs preparation and the adhesive requires initial set time. Most contractors can install 3 to 5 straps in a single day.

What affects the timeline:

Number of cracks — Each additional crack adds 30 to 60 minutes
Accessibility — Cracks behind finished basement walls require demolition and add significant time
Severity — Wide cracks (over 1/4 inch) may need stapling or additional reinforcement beyond simple injection

For more on identifying what type of crack you are dealing with, see our guide on foundation crack types.

Helical and Push Pier Installation: 3 to 5 Days

Pier installation is the most common solution for settling foundations and is the method most people picture when they think of foundation repair. The timeline depends on how many piers are needed, which is driven by the length of wall or number of corners being supported.

Day 1 typically involves site preparation — excavating soil along the foundation to expose the footing, setting up equipment, and marking pier locations. For push piers, a hydraulic ram is used to drive steel pipe segments through the footing down to load-bearing strata, often 15 to 30 feet deep. Helical piers are screwed into the ground using a hydraulic torque motor.

Days 2 through 4 are spent installing the piers themselves. An experienced crew can install 4 to 8 piers per day depending on soil conditions. If the soil is extremely dense or rocky, each pier takes longer to drive. A typical residential job requires 8 to 15 piers.

Day 5 is usually reserved for lifting. Once all piers are in place, synchronized hydraulic jacks raise the foundation back toward its original position. The lift is done incrementally — often in 1/8-inch stages — to avoid cracking walls, breaking plumbing, or stressing the structure. After the lift is complete, the soil is backfilled and the site is cleaned.

Key variables that extend pier installation timelines:

Depth to bedrock — Piers in expansive clay areas like Texas or Oklahoma may need to go 25+ feet deep
Number of piers — Larger homes with longer wall spans need more piers
Interior vs. exterior piers — Interior piers (installed through the slab) add time for concrete cutting and patching
Landscaping and hardscape — Driveways, patios, and mature plantings near the foundation require careful removal and add restoration time

Mudjacking and Foam Leveling: 1 Day

Mudjacking (also called slabjacking) is one of the faster foundation repair methods. A crew drills 1 to 2 inch holes through the sunken concrete, then pumps a cement slurry underneath to raise the slab back to level. Most residential mudjacking jobs are completed in 3 to 6 hours.

Polyurethane foam leveling (polyjacking) is even faster. The injection holes are smaller (about 5/8 inch), and the foam sets in roughly 15 minutes versus the hours or days that mudjacking slurry takes to fully cure. A typical foam leveling job takes 2 to 4 hours.

Both methods are primarily used for concrete slabs — driveways, garage floors, pool decks, and slab-on-grade foundations that have settled. They are not appropriate for structural pier-and-beam foundation issues.

The timeline can extend if:

Multiple slabs need lifting across different areas of the property
Plumbing runs beneath the slab complicate drilling locations
Severe settling requires multiple injection rounds with curing time between them

Wall Anchor and Brace Systems: 2 to 3 Days

Bowing, leaning, or bulging basement walls typically require either wall anchors or wall braces to stabilize them and, in some cases, gradually straighten them over time.

Wall anchors involve excavating in the yard 10 to 15 feet from the foundation wall, driving a steel anchor plate into stable soil, and connecting it to a plate on the interior wall with a steel rod. The rod is tightened to hold the wall in place. A crew can typically install 4 to 6 anchors per day.

Day 1 focuses on excavation, which is the most time-consuming part. Trenches need to be dug at each anchor point, and the depth depends on how far down the wall movement extends.

Day 2 is spent installing the anchor rods, interior plates, and tightening the system. If the wall can be partially straightened during installation (depending on damage severity and soil conditions), additional tightening is done.

Day 3 covers backfilling, site cleanup, and any interior drywall or finishing repairs.

Carbon fiber or steel I-beam braces are installed entirely from the interior and are faster — usually 1 to 2 days. They do not straighten the wall, but they stop further inward movement. They are often preferred when yard excavation is impractical or the wall deflection is minor (under 2 inches).

House Leveling: 5 to 7 Days (Sometimes Longer)

House leveling is the most involved foundation repair and requires the longest timeline. This is typically needed when a pier-and-beam home has settled significantly and the entire structure needs to be raised and re-shimmed.

Days 1 to 2 involve setup — placing cribbings and bottle jacks or hydraulic jacks at strategic points underneath the home. The crew must assess every load-bearing point, and in many cases, temporary supports are installed to prevent uneven stress during the lift.

Days 3 to 5 are the actual leveling process. The house is raised incrementally, with constant monitoring using laser levels and string lines. Raising too quickly risks cracking plaster, breaking windows, snapping plumbing, or warping door frames. Experienced contractors lift the home in stages, often over multiple days, to let the structure gradually adjust.

Days 5 to 7 cover final shimming, new pier installation or repair of existing piers, beam repair or sistering, and restoration of skirting, plumbing, and utilities.

House leveling timelines can stretch to 10+ days for larger homes, homes with extensive termite or rot damage to structural members, or homes where the original pier layout was inadequate and additional piers must be poured.

For a deeper comparison of these methods, see our complete guide to foundation repair methods compared.

Pre-Repair Preparation: What Happens Before Work Begins

The repair timeline does not start on day one of construction. There are several steps that happen in the weeks leading up to the actual work.

The Inspection Phase (1 to 2 Weeks Before)

Before any repair is scheduled, you will need a thorough foundation inspection. This typically takes 1 to 3 hours on site and involves measuring floor elevations, examining cracks, checking doors and windows for alignment, and sometimes using a manometer or laser level to map the foundation plane.

If your contractor recommends it — and you should seriously consider it — a structural engineer’s assessment adds another 3 to 7 business days for the report. This independent evaluation confirms the diagnosis and specifies exactly what repair is needed. It costs $300 to $800 but can save you thousands by ensuring you get the right fix the first time.

Permits and Scheduling (1 to 3 Weeks)

Some jurisdictions require permits for foundation repair, particularly for pier installation, wall anchors, or any work that affects the structural system. Permit timelines vary widely — some counties issue them in 2 to 3 days, while others take 2 to 3 weeks.

Your contractor should handle the permit application, but ask about it upfront so it does not delay your project. Foundation repair contractors in high-demand markets may also have scheduling backlogs of 2 to 4 weeks, especially during the drier months when most foundation work is performed.

Preparing Your Home

Your contractor should provide specific instructions, but standard preparation includes:

Move furniture and belongings away from foundation walls (both inside and outside)
Clear landscaping within 5 to 6 feet of the foundation where excavation will occur
Protect floors with drop cloths in areas where crews will need interior access
Arrange access — unlock gates, clear pathways for equipment, ensure 10+ feet of clearance for trucks
Notify your neighbors, especially if work involves excavation near property lines or heavy equipment that generates noise

What Happens During the Repair

Understanding the daily rhythm of a foundation repair job helps set realistic expectations.

Daily Work Schedule

Most foundation repair crews work 7:00 or 8:00 AM to 4:00 or 5:00 PM, Monday through Friday. Some companies work half-days on Saturday to meet deadlines. Heavy equipment noise (hydraulic drivers, compressors, and excavators) is concentrated during work hours and typically falls within local noise ordinance limits.

Equipment and Access

Expect the following on your property during the repair:

Hydraulic equipment — pier driving machines, jacks, compressors
Excavation equipment — mini excavator or backhoe for exterior pier or anchor work
Concrete cutting tools — if interior piers or slab work is required
Work vehicles — typically 1 to 3 trucks and a trailer
Soil piles — excavated dirt will be stockpiled on your property for backfill

Crews generally need access to the full perimeter of your foundation. If your home has a very narrow side yard or is built close to a property line, discuss access logistics with your contractor before signing the contract.

Progress Communication

A reputable contractor will provide daily updates on progress. Ask your contractor before the project begins: Who is your daily point of contact? How will they update you? What decisions might you need to make during the project?

For help selecting the right company, read our guide on choosing a foundation contractor.

Living in Your Home During Repairs

One of the biggest practical concerns is whether you need to move out during the work. The good news is that most foundation repairs do not require you to leave your home.

When You Can Stay

Crack repair — Minimal disruption. You may smell epoxy fumes for a few hours if the work is in an unventilated basement.
Pier installation (exterior only) — The noise and vibration are noticeable but generally tolerable. Your plumbing and utilities remain connected.
Mudjacking or foam leveling — Completed in hours with minimal disruption.
Wall anchor installation — Moderate noise and vibration during excavation and anchor driving.

When You Should Consider Staying Elsewhere

Interior pier installation — If significant portions of your slab floor are being cut, the dust, noise, and loss of livable space can make it worth staying elsewhere for 2 to 3 days.
Whole-house leveling — During the active lifting phase, plumbing connections may be temporarily disconnected, and the shifting structure can make doors inoperable and floors uneven. Many contractors recommend vacating for 3 to 5 days.
Extensive excavation near utility connections — If water or gas lines need to be temporarily disconnected for access, you will need to leave.

If you have household members with respiratory conditions, young children, or pets that are sensitive to noise and dust, it may be worth leaving even for less disruptive repairs. Most jobs generate concrete dust, diesel exhaust from equipment, and sustained noise in the 80 to 95 decibel range.

Post-Repair: What to Expect After the Work Is Done

The day the crew leaves is not the day the project is truly finished. There is a post-repair period that requires your attention and patience.

Immediate Post-Repair (First 2 Weeks)

Cosmetic cracks may appear. When a foundation is lifted, the structure adjusts. Hairline cracks in drywall, plaster, and brick veneer are normal and expected. These are cosmetic, not structural. Wait 4 to 6 weeks before repairing them, as the house may continue to settle slightly into its new position.
Doors and windows may stick or gap. The framing has moved, and some doors and windows may need re-shimming or adjustment. Again, wait a few weeks before making permanent adjustments.
Backfilled soil will settle. The excavated areas around your foundation will compact over the first few rain cycles. You will likely need to add soil and regrade those areas.

The First 6 Months

Monitor for new cracks that grow wider than 1/4 inch — this could indicate an ongoing problem
Check that drainage is directing water away from the foundation (this is critical to preventing recurrence)
Run your sprinkler system on a consistent schedule if your contractor recommends maintaining soil moisture levels (common in expansive clay regions)
Schedule your warranty inspection — most reputable contractors include a follow-up visit at the 6 or 12 month mark

Long-Term Maintenance

Foundation repair is designed to be permanent, but only if you maintain proper drainage and moisture levels around your home. The most common cause of foundation repair failure is poor water management — gutters that dump water next to the foundation, grading that slopes toward the house, or irrigation systems that over-saturate one side of the foundation.

For detailed cost information by state, visit our state cost guides to understand pricing in your area.

Factors That Can Extend Your Timeline

Even with the best planning, several factors can push your project beyond the estimated schedule:

Weather delays. Rain is the most common cause of foundation repair delays. Excavation cannot be done safely in saturated soil, and pier driving in muddy conditions can compromise installation quality. Most contractors build 1 to 2 weather days into their estimates, but extended wet periods can add a week or more.

Unexpected soil conditions. If the crew hits rock, underground utilities, or soil that behaves differently than expected, the pier driving process slows significantly. Conversely, very loose or organic fill soil may require piers to be driven deeper than planned.

Discovery of additional damage. Once a foundation is excavated, contractors sometimes find problems that were not visible during the initial inspection — corroded rebar, deteriorated footing, void spaces, or root intrusion. Addressing these findings adds time but is necessary for a lasting repair.

Permit or inspection delays. Some municipalities require an inspection at specific stages (before backfill, for instance). If the inspector is unavailable, the crew may have to wait.

Supply chain issues. Custom-length piers, specialty brackets, or specific resin types may need to be ordered and can occasionally face shipping delays.

How to Keep Your Project on Schedule

While you cannot control the weather, there are things you can do to prevent unnecessary delays:

Complete your preparation checklist before the crew arrives — clear the work area, move vehicles, trim landscaping, and provide gate access.
Be available for decisions. If the crew discovers something unexpected, a quick response from you keeps the project moving.
Choose a contractor with inventory. Companies that stock standard pier lengths, brackets, and materials locally are less likely to face supply delays than those who order per-project.
Schedule during drier months if your area has distinct wet and dry seasons. In the Southeast, late spring and fall tend to have the most favorable conditions.
Do not combine your foundation repair with other major home renovations simultaneously. Plumbing, electrical, and interior work near the foundation area creates scheduling conflicts and access issues.

Getting Started

If you are facing foundation problems and want to understand both the timeline and the cost, the best first step is getting multiple professional assessments. Different contractors may recommend different approaches, and comparing their proposed methods, timelines, and warranties will help you make an informed decision.

Visit our Get Quotes page to connect with licensed foundation repair contractors in your area. Getting 3 estimates is standard practice and gives you the leverage to compare not just price, but timelines, methods, and warranty terms side by side.